::GTapex:: - Naturally Aspirated Skills
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Author Topic: 2007 Challenge entry - Toyota Sprinter Trueno  (Read 7752 times)
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Gizmo
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« on: May 09, 2007, 06:06:19 PM »

I really wanted to use my 4G Civic or my KP61, But i havnt got time for a few months, so, i decided to use an existing model, resorting to my previous years.

New to this sort of spec listing, but, ill give it a try, Not sure what class i would be able to enter either.

Base car - BMW 520 1972 (E12), by mad_man & Outlaw

Build design

87' Late Apex Model

Drivetrain

20V 4A-GE Silvertop
HKS 1800cc Stroker Kit
Un-Branded 45mm ITB's
Toda Racing Camshafts, Intake (305/9.5mm), Exhaust (304/9.5mm)
N1 Exhaust System
Lightweight Flywheel
Carbon Fibre Prop Shaft
Cusco 2 Way LSD
MKIII Supra Hub Conversion

248bhp/265nm @ 7790RPM


Chassis

Stock Steering System
Front and Back Upper and Lower Braces
Uprated Anti Roll Bars
Advan Lightweight Wheels
Standard MKIII Supra Brakes, with Uprated Groved and Drilled Discs with Uprated pads
TIEN Racing Coilover Set
Carbon Fiber Bonnet anc Front Fenders

Interior/Exterior

Interior Completly Stripped
10ltr Fuel Cell
Fuel/ brake Lines re-located to inside of car
Full 6 Point Weld-In Rollcage
Sparco Bucket Seats
6 Point 2" Sparco Harness





Care Currently just sics in visual state, ive yet to re-worked the ini and torque curves. ATM, is runing the Turbo ini with the N/A Tuned Curve, so, its a bit of a mess

More Specs to Come
« Last Edit: May 12, 2007, 05:28:20 AM by Gizmo » Logged

discoquinn
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« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2007, 11:29:23 PM »

Only major problem I see is the "CF drive shafts". The car uses a solid rear axle with small diameter shafts, it's unlikely to engineer a CF shaft for a solid rear axle.

250hp at the wheels Naturally aspirated is a bit of a stretch.

Also, don't forget suspension tuning.

Keep up the spirit's, it's great that your entering. Smiley
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Gizmo
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« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2007, 10:23:58 AM »

yeah, the CF Driveshafts were a bit of a push.

Havnt got the full spec list written up yet, will update it tonite.

250bhp at the fly i ment to say, id probs say about 220 at the wheels
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« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2007, 11:22:46 AM »


250hp at the wheels Naturally aspirated is a bit of a stretch.


mine makes atleast 300-330 at the wheels NA.. Tongue

also this car would be in class B or C, since the engine is illegal for A and it's obviously not a kei car.
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« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2007, 12:32:10 PM »

Quite a make-over, from a 5-series to a D1 Toyota... Wink Btw, I think both D1 Trueno car.inis are the same, except for the engine part.

Since you swapped the engine, depending on the weight and tyre choice, your car will either be in Class B or Class C, as RE Turbo G said.

Some minor critics on your specs so far, I'm sure you can iron them out:
5-lug wheels on standard brakes? How's that going to work out if 4-lugs are standard?
There's no 20V 4A-GZE engine, all supercharged 4As were 16V units. Judging by the rest of your specs, I take it this is a typo and you meant to say 4A-GE, though.
The HKS stroker kit is basically a 7A crankshaft if I remember correctly, which will hurt your ability to rev quite a lot. So, your indicated peak power level of 8-10k rpm is unlikely. From what I saw, 8k rpm is about the maximum on these.
The camshaft specs you gave aren't up for 250hp, you will barely get over 200hp even with the increased displacement. For anything above 200hp in a stock sized 4A-GE, you will need over 300
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« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2007, 12:49:17 PM »

See this is y i would never fuck with NA....turbo every thing or if ur crazy twin charge the every thing....mawhahahah  Wink

Giz if i was u i would have just but a Formula atlantic engine in there i am pretty sure there around 250 and there are spec fot them...i think..meh  12K goodness heheheh

Goo google http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/7177/formulaatlanticspecs.html
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Gizmo
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« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2007, 02:18:13 PM »

All Motor FTW!

I Re-vised the specs, if someone would like to go over them?
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« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2007, 02:23:43 PM »

If you still want to revert to the AE101/GZE engine, Cosmo once made me a torque curve (and an INI?) for my AE101 model.
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Gizmo
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« Reply #8 on: May 10, 2007, 02:25:26 PM »

That would work a charm alex, if you could catch me online later, and send me them?
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« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2007, 02:39:08 PM »

initial d for the lose? Tongue

now, i could manage the impossible with engines if i had a crack at it.. i could probably pull more than 250 out of that engine at the crank.. especially if it's boosted..

but if you have a SC 1.8 it's pretty stupid to be revving all the way to 10k to make power, since SCs are generally used for low/mid-range torque anyway.. that 11.8:1 isnt really helping you much either as far as making sense goes.. basically you need to pick whether you're going to be boosted or NA, it looks like you're trying to be both. and that only works at the dragstrip. boosted, you're going to need some lower-comp pistons if you dont want to grenade it as soon as you start it or ditch the SC if you want your revs and compression. i dont know what size injectors you're using, so all my assumptions are based on you using some normal-ish ones. shaving the head or the top of the deck was a bit of a stupid idea aswell on a boosted vehicle. if anything, you shouldve just had it machined a little.. what did you need to lose almost a millimeter for? that's going to affect your compression AND your valve clearances/deck height. and running a stroker crank on top of a shaved head probably wouldnt be that good of an idea in real life unless you were really professional, assuming you didnt take any gasket stuff into consideration.. hopefully you're not running domed pistons.. but with an 11.8 CR, there's a decent chance you are.. you shouldve just bought a toda 4A or the 4th-stage is it? initial D fanboy super-engine.. still you do get points for trying.. but research more and you'll learn more, provided you dont get discouraged from doing it wrong..

@cosmo, maybe he re-drilled the rotors for budget speed and bling wheels.. Tongue

you shouldve used some of endo's 4-lugs instead, the 5-lugs arent really seeming to be offering any sort of non-aesthetic advantage, since the brakes are stock.. now if you had some supra brakes behind those 17s.. it would be a different story.
« Last Edit: May 10, 2007, 02:54:54 PM by RE turbo G » Logged

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Gizmo
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« Reply #10 on: May 10, 2007, 02:42:59 PM »

Ive used endos wheels for to much over the years. i fancied a change, i may make them smaller, around 15" ish, with a tad more tread. hense the 5 Lug Supra Hub and Brake conversion.

I was originally going to Supercharge it, But ive always loved All Motor engines, and always will, ive drive a couple of turbos, although the lag is awesome when it goes, you just cant beat to have all the power there when you need it.

Ill keep it at 250, for reliability, i think im already pusing it
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« Reply #11 on: May 10, 2007, 02:51:44 PM »

it's not the power level that's a worry. (i've edited my post before yours aswell) it's the compression and the boost. if your static CR is 11.8 without the SC, your actual CR with boost is probably stratospeheric if you're running 250hp at the crank. and for that, you'll need some extra gangster hardcore rods and pistons, and probably a strengthened crank if you dont want shrapnel coming through your cf bonnet/fenders. and that shaved head is further raising the CR if you hadnt already accounted for it in your CR you have listed.. there's all kinds of stupid math to take into account when you mess with the internals of an engine and change the displacement boring it out is generally idiot-proof.. but stroking and cutting up the vertical distance metal can cause you a lot of heartache if you're not careful. you need to pick NA or turbo and go with one if you want it to be reliable.. you've got a NA tuned forced-induction car right now..

hmm.. guess it's NA now based on the first-post edits.

still.. i'd be really careful with a stroker crank, domed pistons, almost a millimeter off the head AND high lift/duration cams.. sounds like a recipe for disaster..

all that stuff is putting your pistons and valves reeeeeeeally close together at times when they might be going really fast.. and towards each other.. that 5-valve is just bling.. ever notice none of the fast 4As are 5-valves? they typically use the 16-valves for a reason.. you ought to read up on some other people's 4A builds too to be sure you're safe.. sure it's just a videogame, and i've definitely never seen a blown engine in racer.. but if you're really goign for realism and accuracy, you'll need to and if you're not, you should make a touge comp at RSC where everyone just cobbles soem crap together.. they'd love you for it, you know.. Tongue anywho, keep at it if you can handle all the work.
« Last Edit: May 10, 2007, 03:03:26 PM by RE turbo G » Logged

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« Reply #12 on: January 07, 2008, 02:13:46 PM »

Again, look at the previous post's date before replying, this is an old topic Roll Eyes Instead of bumping threads, you could easily send a PM to the person and are even more likely to get a reply that way.

Anyway, this is FSR's model from the D1GP mod.
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